10 Reasons cause your corals die all

Reason 1: Power outage
Everyone should know that the power outage for a long time will destroy your tank. What you need to know is:
①Most corals can survive for more than 4 days even in complete darkness before they start to spit algae and turn white, so in case of a power outage, you have a buffer of about 4 days.
②When there is no water flow at all, usually after 6 hours (depending on the density of the fish), the fish will start to have problems due to lack of oxygen. Corals can persist for at least 36 hours if only lacking oxygen.
③ The limit range that corals can tolerate is about 68-86 degrees Fahrenheit. If corals are at extreme temperatures, there will be an irreversible situation in a very short time.
So in general, you only need to hook up a USB air pump (for oxygen supply), plus some temporary temperature adjustment programs to keep the coral alive. The real cause of coral death is usually due to prolonged power outages.

Reason 2: Electrical leakage
Usually the leakage of fish tank is static electricity, which will not be a big problem. The real leakage caused is that the heating rod explodes, or the electrical appliances such as the power supply and the controller fall into the tank. It should be known that seawater is a good conductor, so it will cause serious leakage, tripping, and even fire accidents.
Pay attention to the following details:
①The heating rod must be placed correctly to ensure that it will not come out of the water when the power is on.
②Any socket, power supply, and controller must be fixed well, and the fixed position should not be above the water surface (especially with self-adhesive). In this way, even if it is accidentally dropped, it will not fall into the water, which can avoid accidents.
③The cabinet of the bottom filter tank will be very humid, and it will be more humid without ventilation. So if the cabinet does not have a separately designed dry area, do not install the socket, power supply, and controller in the wet base cabinet, otherwise it is only a matter of time before failure.

Reason 3: Salinity meter malfunction
Salinity meter problems can usually be one of the following.
①It is not recommended to use the type of salinometer with plastic pointer, not only the error is very large, but also it is easy to be misread after being stuck.
② It is not recommended to use an electronic salinity meter. Although it works well when it is new, as time goes by, the electrode oxidation will become more and more inaccurate after a few months.
③Traditional optical salinometers are the best choice, as long as they are not broken, they can remain accurate, but regular calibration is also recommended.
④Qualified sea salt generally has stable calcium and magnesium KH values. When the salinity is high/low, the corresponding values will also change proportionally. So when there is a problem, you can infer whether the salinity meter may be faulty by testing the calcium and magnesium KH of the seawater.

Reason 4: Water supply failure
①The failure of the automatic water replenisher mostly occurs on the electronic water replenisher. The failure of not replenishing water is actually not terrible, the terrible thing is the failure of continuous replenishment. If the replenishment tank is large, it will cause the saltwater tank to almost become a freshwater tank. A safer electronic water replenishment solution is to add a physical float valve at the outlet of the water replenishment pipe. Even if the electronics fail completely, the last physical valve can provide secondary protection to the tank.
②In addition to automatic water replenishment, there are a few reefers that have designed drainage on the edge of the sea tank, and then open the skimmer waste water valve for a long time, so that the waste water can be directly discharged into the sewer. This method is very convenient, but once the protein skimmer fails, it will pump out too much waste water, and then your make-up water will be replenished with fresh water, which will eventually cause the salinity to plummet.

Reason 5: Chiller failure
①When I usually change the water, I will temporarily turn off the chiller. Once I changed the water and went out in a hurry, I forgot to turn it on again, resulting in heavy casualties. A similar situation has also happened to many aquarists, and no matter how good the memory is, it is inevitable that they will forget it. Therefore, the best way is to not turn off the equipment that can not be turned off during the usual maintenance. After the maintenance, check again whether the equipment has been turned on.
②If you use split cooling (including all cooling/heating equipment external to the probe), be sure to fix the temperature probe. Once the temperature probe is pulled out of the water, the machine will work endlessly, cooking or freezing an entire tank of livestock in a very short time.

Reason 6: Pipe fittings burst
①The sea tanks all use pvc pipe fittings, and there are many interfaces. If there are some interfaces that are not glued, there may be no water leakage at that time, but water leakage may occur at any time in the future. Therefore, the pipe fitting interface must be carefully checked for looseness and forgot to apply glue.
② In some places, we need to use hoses (such as connecting the chiller, connecting the main pump), and the hoses are more likely to harden and age, and may burst over time. Therefore, the place where the soft and hard pipes are connected must be reinforced with stainless steel hoops.
③If your tank has continuous use of high concentration of ozone, it will accelerate the aging of various hoses. At this time, be sure to check the hoses for various connections every 1-2 months, especially the silicone hose connected to the main pump. Replace as soon as you notice aging and brittleness.

Reason 7: There is a problem with the testing agent
A faulty salinometer causes problems, and other test reagents/testers may also have problems. If the test is still subject to the test after the error, it may cause trouble. The same is true for other calcium, magnesium, kh, potassium, salinity, ph, etc., the experience is actually one point: when you find an abnormal value, you must verify it multiple times, and you must think back and doubt, think about the test or the salt itself is there a problem.

Reason 8: Too much or the wrong thing is added
①Be sure to pay attention to:
Copper medicine (treatment of white spots), TDC (treatment of fish bacterial disease), rotten flesh water (treatment of fish fungal disease), coral quarantine potion, these drugs must not be put into the reef tank.
②Excessive algae removal water (lanthanum chloride) and excess carbon sources (including sugar and vinegar) can cause serious problems. When using these products, you should start with small doses.
③ Particularly poor products, such as poor activated carbon, will release serious PO4 pollution, and these products cannot be used in seawater.

Reason 9: Dangerous Creatures
① Be careful when raising sea cucumbers and sea anemones (especially large carpet sea anemones). This can seriously pollute the water and release toxins.
②The horns and papayas that look cute will release toxins after they die. If your tank is small, the toxins released by these fish after death are likely to kill other organisms.

Reason 10: Artificial
①Be sure to let the children know how to take better care of these pets, because they always like to slap the tank, unplug the power cord, and even throw all kinds of magical stuffs into the tank: cake, candy, biscuits, milk, Toy...
②The purpose of raising corals is to beautify the environment, cultivate sentiment, and make friends. In case the family has objections or conflicts, they should communicate more and try to get the wife/husband to agree! Happy family happy reefing!

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